What drives the price
Modern doors come pre-hung in their frame; the job is pulling the old frame, setting the new one plumb in an opening that is never square, and flashing it so wind-driven rain stays out. In Florida the door is part of the building envelope - impact-rated units need product approvals and a permit, exactly like windows.
- Slab-only vs pre-hung replacement
- Material - steel cheapest, fiberglass the value pick, wood highest maintenance
- Impact rating for the Florida wind-borne debris zone
- Sidelites and transoms multiplying glass cost
- Rot in the sub-sill discovered at tear-out
Should you DIY this or call a professional?
A slab swap into an existing good frame is fair DIY - hinges, bore and strike. A pre-hung replacement is deceptively hard: an out-of-plumb install binds and leaks forever after. In the wind-borne debris zone, an impact door is permitted work with inspection, which settles the question. The insurance angle repeats here: an impact-rated entry contributes to the wind-mitigation discount.
Signs you need this repair
- Daylight visible around the door
- Binding, dragging or a gap the deadbolt barely reaches
- Rot at the bottom of door or frame
- Water on the floor after driven rain
- A hollow builder door doing security duty
How to not get overcharged
Quote the door and install separately, and ask specifically what the sub-sill rot price would be before tear-out. If you are anywhere near needing shutters or windows, price the impact door in the same wind-mitigation conversation - the discount stacks. Check the door's product approval number yourself on the Florida Building Commission site; legitimate installers volunteer it.
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Red flags to watch for
- An impact claim with no product approval number
- No permit on an impact-rated install
- Caulk doing the job of flashing
- A bargain door that arrives slab-only when you paid for pre-hung
Frequently asked questions
How much does it cost to replace a front door?+
Replacing a front door typically runs $800-$2,500 installed, averaging near $1,400 for a quality fiberglass unit. Impact-rated doors, the smart Florida choice, run $1,500-$4,000.
Can I replace a front door myself, or should I hire a professional?+
A slab swap into an existing good frame is fair DIY - hinges, bore and strike. A pre-hung replacement is deceptively hard: an out-of-plumb install binds and leaks forever after. In the wind-borne debris zone, an impact door is permitted work with inspection, which settles the question. The insurance angle repeats here: an impact-rated entry contributes to the wind-mitigation discount.
How long does it take to replace a front door?+
3-6 Hours for a Pre-hung Swap. Scheduling and parts availability can extend the overall timeline beyond the hands-on work itself.
What makes the price of this job go up or down?+
Slab-only vs pre-hung replacement. Material - steel cheapest, fiberglass the value pick, wood highest maintenance. Impact rating for the Florida wind-borne debris zone. Sidelites and transoms multiplying glass cost. Rot in the sub-sill discovered at tear-out.
How do I avoid being overcharged?+
Quote the door and install separately, and ask specifically what the sub-sill rot price would be before tear-out. If you are anywhere near needing shutters or windows, price the impact door in the same wind-mitigation conversation - the discount stacks. Check the door's product approval number yourself on the Florida Building Commission site; legitimate installers volunteer it.